THE HOTEL WHERE PICASSO PAID IN PAINTINGS | LA COLOMBE D'OR
- MAISON MADRE
- May 11
- 2 min read
Updated: May 25
If you're looking for a hotel that offers five-star treatment, then La Colombe d'Or probably isn't the place for you. There is no valet parking, no 24-hour concierge and you won't even be able to get WiFi. But that's the point. Since it opened, it has never been one to conform.
Nestled in the picture-perfect hilltops of Saint-Paul-de-Vence, the drive is one best made in a Mercedes 280SL, roof down. When you arrive, you're met with nothing more than an unassuming yellow stone wall, classic vines and a wooden gate. Its story began in 1920, when a local farmer, Paul Roux, opened a bar and later added three bedrooms. All based around the idea of hosting good company and sharing his love of the arts. During the war, the Riviera became a hideout for painters and poets and many of them found their way to La Colombe d'Or. Money was tight, so instead of paying the bill, they swapped sketches and canvases for a good meal and place to sleep.
Slowly, Roux's art collection grew and today it's the envy of most museums and collectors, boasting works by Matisse, Picasso, Léger, Braque, Chagall, Miró and Calder. You'll also find César, Arman, Sean Scully, Kandinsky and Delaunay. The curation is as casual as the setting. Pieces hang in unexpected places and corners. There are no plaques or labels, nothing is behind glass. It's meant to be enjoyed and lived with. Famous for its artistic circle, it also attracted the likes of the super glamorous icons of the past, with a guestbook that includes names like Brigitte Bardot, Charlie Chaplin, Michael Caine, Roger Moore and Sophia Loren.
It's thanks to La Colombe d'Or that Assouline books exist. After Prosper and Martine Assouline visited the hotel, they were so inspired by its unique charm that they decided to publish their first book. Their debut title, La Colombe d'Or, featured photographs by Prosper and text by Martine, marking the beginning of one of the most iconic luxury publishing houses.
Today, the hotel is run by Roux's grandson, who has made sure the spirit of the place remains untouched. The past still lingers. There is a conscious decision not to give in to the world around it. The menu hasn't changed in forty years. There is no WiFi, no Instagram, no fancy website, it doesn't need any of it. La Colombe d'Or is not trying to impress you. That's the point.
Place du Général de Gaulle, 06570 Saint-Paul-de-Vence, France
